Information and bibliography for this study and for the Rose in embroidery
Historical
Study of British Embroidery: Elizabethan embroidery- Flowers
See the accompanying sheets for more information and
illustration of embroidered flowers.
Why
were embroideries made?
During the Elizabethan flower designs were used to
decorate clothes, textiles, furnishings, and hangings in homes and public environment.
What
is the design source? What is the main design structure?
Flowers were naturalistic. On some pieces they were
without a border, others were enclosed either in strap work patterns or coiling
foliage. Plants were grounded rather than the cut flower or bouquet common
later. The designs and techniques can be seen in both in remaining costumes,
domestic textiles such as cushions and bed hangings as well as portraits done
during the period.
Where
were the embroideries made? Who commissioned it?
Artisans were
employed by lords and wealthy landowners to design and create work. Larger
houses would employ embroiderers permanently to produce clothing and furnishings.
Who
designed it? Who stitched it? Are there foreign influences?
Work was stitched by professional embroiderers or women
of the household. Pattern books were available in France and Germany by 1550
and were distributed through Europe. Patterns were adapted from books such as Conrad Gesner’s “Catalogues Plantarum”
published in 1542, and later from “Herbal
or General History of Plants” by John Gerard originally published in 1597
What
are the raw materials?
The fabric used depended on the intended use: for example
heavier velvets, brocades and linens were used for cushions and hangings, and
finer linen or silk for smocks. Threads were coloured silks, crewel wool, metallic
silver and gold.
What
methods or techniques were used?
Motifs may be worked on linen or canvas slips and applied
to another ground fabric eg velvet. Finer fabrics were directly stitched
onto. Stitches used include tent stitch,
double running stitch, couching, detached buttonhole and satin stitch.
Spangles, pearls and jewels were also used. Blackwork continued to be popular
Find
evidence of animals, birds, insect forms, human figures, plant forms, climate
Areas were filled with embroideries or appliqués. Flowers
include the rose, carnation, gilly flower, daisy, cornflower, pansy, iris. Animals, or birds, eg heron or kingfisher,
and especially insects such as a bee, butterfly or moth were often stitched.
Bibliography
for Elizabethan Embroidery and Roses
study
V&A museum web site.
Lanto Synge 1989. Antique Needlework. Blandford Press, London
Jennifer Harris. 1993 (2010 edition) 5000 Years of Textiles. The British Museum
Press, London
Hardwick Hall embroideries on the National Trust website
Sheila Paine. 2008. Embroidered textiles : A World Guide
to Traditional Patterns. Thames and Hudson
London
Thomasina Beck. 1997. Gardening with Silk and Gold. Readers
Digest (Australia)
L Yefimova and R Belogorskaya. 1987. Russian Embroidery
and Lace
I spent a long time looking at and in awe of these embroideries, but it was time to get stitching.
